A special helper came to The Cooking Lab recently to help us prepare for Halloween. Find him guest-starring in our newest recipe video as he helps his dad, one of our culinary research assistants, Johnny Zhu, make olive oil gummy worms and “dirt.” We also have the recipe, along with photos and tips.
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Book Larder, Seattle’s newest food-focused bookstore, is offering a special package that includes both a copy of Modernist Cuisine and two tickets to an event with MC coauthor Maxime Bilet for a discounted price of $550. That’s $75 off the list price! Please join Max at Book Larder on Thursday, February 2, 2012, at 6:30 p.m. for a demonstration of techniques from the book, insights into MC’s creation, and a Q&A session. For more information, click here to visit the page on Book Larder’s website.
Concentrating flavor is one of the most basic yet important tasks in cooking. From a technical point of view, concentrating generally means evaporating off a solvent while leaving behind as many flavorful molecules as possible. In the kitchen, the solvent is usually water, but sometimes is alcohol. Rarely is it anything else; although fats and oils are edible solvents, you’ll create a spectacular fire if you try to vaporize them.
To get the job done in any reasonable length of time, you must raise the temperature of the solvent to very near its boiling point. The downside to this is that water boils at about 100 °C / 212 °F (the exact temperature varies with altitude and weather conditions), which is often hot enough to dramatically alter many of the flavors you’re trying to concentrate. Sometimes those alterations are exactly what you want: simmering a meat stock for hours plays a crucial role in creating the rich flavor of a traditional demi-glace, for example. But in many cases, the new flavors aren’t so delicious. As a rule of thumb, foods that people usually eat raw are likely to suffer from the high temperatures that reduction requires. When you concentrate an orange juice, for instance, you lose its vibrancy, and it ends up tasting like… well, cooked orange juice.
It turns out there is an alternative way to concentrate these delicate kinds of flavors without ruining them. Increasing pressure raises the boiling point of water (as happens in a pressure cooker), and conversely decreasing pressure lowers the boiling point of water. So the lower the pressure (the stronger the vacuum), the lower the boiling point. In fact, it’s entirely possible to reduce the pressure so far that ice-cold water will boil. A couple years ago in our research kitchen, we used a chamber vacuum sealer to freeze liquid nitrogen solid!
When talking about vacuum pressure, it’s both convenient and illustrative to quantify the pressure in units of millibars (mbar). At sea level, the standard atmospheric pressure is 1,013.25 mbar and the boiling point of water is 100 °C / 212 °F. Take a trip to the mile-high city of Denver and the pressure drops to 805 mbar, and water boils at 93.7 °C / 200.7 °F. That’s not too great a difference, but a vacuum-concentration setup can reduce the pressure surrounding your pot of liquid all the way down to 55 mbar, enough for it to come to a boil at the perfectly pleasant room temperature of 20 °C / 68 °F. That moderate temperature will not destroy any delicate and fresh-smelling aroma compounds.
And more of those compounds will stay in the food, rather than being flung into the air as happens during traditional stove-top reduction. Now it’s true that lowering the boiling point of water also lowers the boiling point of other volatile molecules, so even vacuum reduction does throw away some of those aromas (which make the kitchen smell so nice). But more of them will remain where you want them–flavoring the food–than if you just turn up the burner to drive off the liquid.
It’s easy to imagine all kinds of dishes that benefit from flavors concentrated at low temperatures. At The Cooking Lab, we vacuum-concentrate granny smith apple juice, to preserve its fresh, tart flavor as well as its bright green appearance. Vacuum-reduced wine-based sauces are also interesting because you can boil out both the ethanol and water at very mild temperatures. Personally, I like to use a simple setup I have at home to prepare cocktails with vacuum-concentrated infusions and tinctures.
The results are always very different than anything you’ve had before. Actually, it’s a bit hard to describe these flavor profiles because few people have tasted anything like them before. Until now no one has come up with an easy way to vacuum-concentrate in the kitchen.
In my next post, I’ll show you how to build your own relatively simple and inexpensive vacuum-concentrating setup with the help of a little Google-fu. In the meantime, check out the table below for a range of concentrating strategies, all of which are covered in Modernist Cuisine. (Click on the table for a larger version suitable for printing.)
Can Science Improve Cooking? from bgC3 on Vimeo.
News of the “Former Microsoft CTO Publishes Giant Cookbook” has been heralded around the world since the launch of MC. But there’s no denying that, despite having a PhD and working with Stephen Hawking after turning just 23, Nathan Myhrvold got his start when Bill Gates hired him as Microsoft’s first chief technology officer. Watch Gates as he explains Modernist Cuisine and gives a little insight into his former colleague and lifelong friend.
For more from Gates’s perspective, check out the article and slide show on the gatesnotes.
Nathan Myhrvold will talk about reinventing cooking through Modernist Cuisine on December 5 from 7:30 to 9:00 p.m. right in his own backyard for Seattle’s Town Hall program, which welcomes special guests such as musicians, scientists, and authors.
Here’s the best news: tickets are only $5! For more information, click here.
Nathan Myhrvold will join several esteemed chefs to pay tribute to chef Charlie Trotter and winemaker Piero Antinori during the Food Network South Beach Wine and Food Festival on February 25, 2012, in Miami, Florida. Anthony Bourdain will host the event, which will showcase the talents of the world’s most renowned wine and spirits producers, chefs, and culinary personalities such as:
In particular, Nathan will prepare hors d’oeuvres to be passed during the cocktail reception.
Tickets go on sale October 24, 2011. For more information, click here.
It may be October, but despite the weather, we refuse to give up our favorite frozen treat: pistachio gelato. We take a good look at the recipe, complete with tips and a video, in our newest installation in the Recipe Library. Because this recipe calls for locust bean gum and carrageenan, Nathan has taken the opportunity to explain what’s so great about hydrocolloids. Plus, we’ve included a table about the stabilization properties of hydrocolloids.
Stephen Colbert liked our dairy-free, egg-free gelato; we’re sure you will, too.
Uwajimaya is one of our favorite places to pick up all kinds of produce, but when we need an exotic spice or two, we head over to Mayuri, an Indian grocery store near The Cooking Lab in Bellevue, Washington.
The James Beard Foundation in New York City is hosting a special event featuring Modernist Cuisine author Nathan Myhrvold on Wednesday, November 16, at 6:30 p.m. A ticket admits both you and a guest to a champagne reception with Dr. Myhrvold at the Beard House, a presentation on the revolution underway in the culinary arts, and a signed copy of the six-volume book and display case, including shipping to your home. A portion of the $650 all-inclusive ticket price will benefit the James Beard Foundation.
For tickets and more information, call 212.627.2308 or click here.
Susan Hassler of IEEE Spectrum recently spoke with Nathan Myhrvold about Modernist Cuisine. Their discussion ranged over a variety of topics, including how microwaves work, what Nathan eats at home, and how long it takes the team to create one of our 29-course lab dinners.