The true secret to great, fluffy mashed potatoes is to first heat treat your potatoes prior to boiling. Heat treating and then cooling before boiling gelatinizes the starch and stabilizes the starch granules. For our mashed potatoes (we call it potato puree), we heat treat the potatoes by cooking them sous vide; it makes a huge difference!
The technique for this recipe is relatively simple. Essentially, we cook the potatoes sous vide for 35 minutes. Then the potatoes are refrigerated until completely cooled, about 30 minutes. Next, they’re boiled for another 25 minutes, then drained and passed through a ricer or food mill. Then we stir butter into the mashed mixture with the option of passing it again through a fine sieve if you desire a finer texture. This method creates a silky, stable puree that doesn’t turn gummy.
If you’re making this recipe ahead of time, stop after step 9 and refrigerate. Continue with step 10 just before serving.
Want something dairy free instead? Check out our alternative recipe here.
Neapolitan pizza has influenced every other style of pizza in the world, yet it shares very little with those styles in terms of appearance, texture, and flavor. It’s characterized by a crust with a large cornicione, or rim, marked by small charred spots called leoparding. The crust is soft and the rim has an open crumb.
Baked at 840–900°F, Neapolitan pizza is ready in just 60–90 seconds. Traditional dough contains only four ingredients: flour, water, yeast, and salt. The hydration level is crucial to achieve the right texture and bake.
00 flour is commonly used for a tender crust, but other types like Tipo 0, 1, and 2 are also popular. Fermentation, whether at room temperature or cold-proofed, enhances flavor and texture. In Naples, dough ferments for 2 to 24 hours; some pizzaioli opt for bulk fermentation.
Our approach in Modernist Pizza involved using instant dry yeast for reliability. We fully develop gluten during mixing, bulk ferment at room temperature for 20–24 hours, then proof for another 3 hours. This method yields a dough with a balanced hydration level (62.3%) and an airy crumb.
Our oven bake times vary according to what you have on hand—take a look at our chart in the recipe below to get a better sense of what is required.
Check out Modernist Pizza for additional variations, such as our classic AVPN-style dough or our doughs that incorporate poolish and cold-proofing for enhanced hydration and texture.
There are thousands upon thousands of kinds of leavened breads in the world, but only a handful of types—injera and dosa, for example—are gluten-free by nature. The others rely on gluten for their elasticity and structure. That means making a gluten-free loaf of bread is a very difficult endeavor—after all, the familiar structure and texture of bread is defined by gluten. Because they lack the signature texture of wheat-based breads, gluten-free loaves are technically more like savory cakes than breads.
For us, creating a successful version of gluten-free bread means replicating the consistency of traditional bread and trying to make our experimental gluten-free loaves as bread-like as we can. While this process is not without challenges, we believe our recipes come very close to achieving our goal. We’ve come up with a blend of flours and then add thickening agents and enzymes to make loaves that resemble regular bread as closely as possible.
Even if you’re not gluten-free, learning to bake a gluten-free loaf is a valuable skill—perfect for making something special for a friend or family member who is.
Gluten-free brioche is a great place to start. Brioche is the granddaddy of sweet enriched breads; it’s rich and tender (and deeply satisfying) because it’s laden with butter. The richness of butter and eggs provides gluten-free dough (which is typically dense) with some welcome softness. For this recipe, the hydration level is slightly lower than it would be for a wheat-flour dough. This is to ensure that the dough is easy to work with given that there is no gluten to contribute structure. Many of our tasters did not know this brioche was gluten-free—it’s that good.
Vollkornbrot is one of the hallmark breads of Germany. It is a type of brick-like bread that has rye integrated into the dough in many forms: a rye levain, cooked rye berries, rye flour, and cracked rye (as a soaker and in the preferment). All that cracked rye goes beyond being simple dough-enhancing inclusions to providing much of the bread’s structure—overall, the recipe uses only a small proportion of rye flour, just enough to help the dough coalesce.
Vollkornbrot is highly versatile and perfect for incorporating a variety of inclusions, offering endless creative possibilities. Our books feature Vollkornbrot variations including caramelized grain, nuts, and dried fruit; chocolate chunks and cocoa powder; and candied fruits.
While ring-shaped wheat breads have long existed in many parts of the world, the bagel has two main distinctions: it’s traditionally boiled and then baked, and it’s often associated with Jewish culture. Bagels have been around for centuries, their origins tracing back to Poland over 400 years ago. What began as a local specialty in Europe became a New York City staple by the 1950s and has since spread around the world.
The secret to the perfect bagel is a subject of heated discourse. After trying bagels from New York City to Seattle, we can tell you one thing: it’s not the water source; it’s the baker. One of our biggest breakthroughs was a starch slurry, which not only helps toppings stick but also makes it possible to use larger items, such as sunflower seeds or chopped nuts, that otherwise wouldn’t cling well.
Black raisins, cinnamon, and a cinnamon smear are swirled throughout this enriched bread to provide an irresistible and classic flavor combination. This bread is best when sliced and toasted to bring out its aromas and texture. We suggest using an offset spatula to spread the smear evenly and thinly onto the dough before shaping it—that way, the flavor distribution will be consistent, and there won’t be large gaps with no swirl in the baked loaf.
Some might believe you need a cherished heirloom starter passed down from your grandmother to make sourdough, but the truth is, all you need is flour, water, and a bit of patience. Crafting a sourdough starter, also known as a levain, at home is not only easy but also a fun and rewarding process that opens the door to baking delicious sourdough breads.
Why do we say that the pedigree of your sourdough starter isn’t important? Our answer is that a long-lived levain will almost certainly change in composition over time. Think of it like a city; a great city may be just as grand two centuries from now as it is today, but it will have different inhabitants—some descended from the original residents and others who will arrive later. Overall, the pedigree of your levain isn’t important. As long as the levain is fed on the same schedule and kept at about the same temperature and level of hydration, it will ripen and mature as expected.
We’ve found that the following flours work best for a sourdough starter: bread flour; all-purpose flour; light, medium, or dark rye flour; 100% whole wheat flour; or a combination of these. We don’t recommend using high-gluten flours (essentially anything with more than 11%–13% of protein), as they contain less starch—the source of the simple sugars yeast and lactic acid bacteria (LAB) feed on. Rye sourdough starters need an additional 20% water due to the thirsty nature of rye flour.
Regular feedings of your sourdough starter will progressively strengthen the lactic and acetic acid flavors, with the souring process leveling off after around 10 days. For a stronger metabolism and more depth of flavor, feed your sourdough starter twice a day.
If you’re looking to learn more about the sourdough starter—such as what feeding and caring looks like, top tips to keep your starter alive and thriving, and more—then check out our free online sourdough course at the Modernist Bread School.
Maintaining a sourdough starter, also known as a levain, involves commitment. You have to remember at the same time each day to remove a portion and add more flour and water. This routine can lead to a lot of waste unless you’re baking every day. Schedules can get in the way. Going on vacation or having a busy week often means neglecting your sourdough starter. Whether you’re off to explore new places or just swamped with work, maintaining your sourdough starter can become challenging. Missing a feeding can cause the sourdough starter to become inactive and change in composition, leading to a neglected starter that you feel is unusable.
But instead of throwing away that neglected starter, why not give it a second chance? With our Second Chance Sourdough recipe, you can transform leftover or inactive sourdough starter into delicious, flavorful bread.
This method captures that complex sourdough flavor using inactive sourdough starter, without the hassle and waste of daily feeding. The idea involves adding a small amount of commercial yeast to inert sourdough starter. The sourdough starter provides complex flavor, and the yeast makes the dough rise. Simply freeze portions of inert sourdough starter in a zip-top bag and defrost as needed (learn more freezing tips from our blog here). Then mix it into dough made with a little instant dry yeast.
This technique is also great if you want to make a big batch of sourdough starter and use it over time. Freezing active sourdough starter allows you to thaw and use portions as you would a regular sourdough starter for about 2 weeks. As storage time goes on and the thawed sourdough starter becomes less active, simply add 0.4% –0.5% commercial yeast to boost leavening power. To help protect the sourdough starter from the effects of cold, you can add a bit of glycerin before freezing. Think of this method as a way to minimize waste or as a rather spectacular form of instant sourdough flavoring. Second-chance sourdough is a way for you to enjoy the rich flavors of sourdough bread without the constant maintenance of your starter.
The Direct Farmer’s Bread is a great, time-saving recipe for beginner home bakers that can be made in a day.
Of the rye bread recipes that can be found in Modernist Cuisine at Home, this one has a lower rye flour percentage. The blend of wheat and rye offers the best of both flours: gluten provided by the wheat gives the bread structure and a more open crumb, while the rye offers flavor and a chewy texture. One twist that’s different from many breads is that the loaf is baked seam side up rather than down. This creates natural—if irregular—splits in the surface of the bread while baking. The splits act as a score on the bread, which is not only practical but also creates a beautiful, rustic-looking loaf.
Using commercial yeast is not only easier than relying on a preferment for the leavener but also a speedier option since the proofing time is significantly reduced. What you miss out on—what only time can contribute—is the depth and complexity of flavor that levain and prolonged proofing time offer. But to have a rustic loaf with this much character in a fraction of the original time is not a bad compromise.
It’s no secret that we love pressure cookers and Instant Pots. Most of us have heard gruesome tales of exploding pressure cookers that discouraged would-be users of the device from cooking with one. Older versions of the pressure cooker were simply not as safe as those produced today, which was mainly due to malfunctioning release valves. These days, pressure cookers and Instant Pots are not only safe but also produce extraordinary results with many foods, including grains. They cook wet foods at higher temperatures and faster speeds than other conventional methods.
A pressure cooker is just a pot with a lockable lid and a valve that controls the internal pressure. Water boiling inside the sealed pot turns into steam and increases the internal pressure, usually to 1 bar / 15 psi above atmospheric pressure. The higher pressure makes it possible for water to reach an effective cooking temperature as high as 120°C / 250°F, which reduces cooking time by half or more for most foods. This fantastic speed, however, comes at a cost: since you can’t open the lid until the pressure is released, you can’t stir the contents or see what you’re cooking until the end. You can learn even more about how pressure cookers work in our blog.
During the creation of Modernist Cuisine, we stumbled upon an interesting method to caramelize food under pressure. The key ingredient? Baking soda! Baking soda is a catalyst that accelerates the caramelization process to create exceptionally rich results. Picture sugars intensifying and flavors concentrating, all because of baking soda combining with a heat of 120°C / 250°F within the confines of a pressure cooker or Instant Pot. Two of our favorite pressure-caramelized recipes include our Caramelized Carrot Soup and Pressure Caramelized Sweet Potato Soup recipes.
Initially designed for vegetables and fruits, this technique surprisingly works wonders for grains as well. It make the grains tender and incredibly flavorful. Read on to learn how to pressure-caramelized grains and also how to seamlessly incorporate them into your bread recipes.
BEFORE YOU USE THE PRESSURE COOKER OR INSTANT POT
To pressure-caramelize grains, you will need to cook them first, separately, until they are al dente. This means that each grain (or piece of cracked grain) is visibly independent from the others, rather than as part of a homogenous mass, as in porridge. Grains are considered al dente when they’re tender; the water should be absorbed or evaporated when cooking is complete. Taste the grains to judge the texture rather than relying on how they look.
Al dente is cooked through but with some bite resistance, such as noodles.
You can cook grains until they are al dente on a stovetop, with a pressure cooker or an Instant Pot. You’ll find a step-by-step guide for each option (as well as our recommended cooking times for various grains) starting on page 28 of Modernist Bread at Home. As a general rule, when cooking grains on a stovetop, avoid lifting the lid of the pot unless the recipe calls for it (the lid must be removed for some grains so that water can evaporate). If you lift the lid, steam will escape from the surface, which cools down the pot’s contents. Depending on the type, cooked grains can be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 2 months. After cooking, the grains will clearly retrograde, transforming from soft to brittle and crumbly as the starches recrystallize, but when they bake inside the loaf of bread, the process will be reversed.
HOW TO PRESSURE-CARAMELIZE INCLUSIONS WITH A PRESSURE COOKER
With nothing more than sugar, butter, baking soda, and a few canning jars, you can add pressure-caramelized grain, fruit, and vegetable inclusions to your dough in a few hours by following this recipe. The water in the recipe below should be added only when pressure-caramelizing grains; without the additional water, the grains will harden and become unpalatable. If you are pressure-caramelizing any other ingredient, omit the water.
We found that in addition to intensifying flavors, the small amounts of butter, baking soda, and sugar we added actually improved the structure and quality of the dough, producing a larger volume and more-open crumb structure. We suggest adding up to 50% of pressure-caramelized ingredients to your breads.
INGREDIENTS
200 g main ingredients
40 g (or 3½ Tbsp) sugar
60 g (or ¼ cup) butter, melted
1 g (or ⅛ tsp) baking soda
100 g (or ¼ cup + 3 Tbsp) water if pressure-caramelizing grains
INSTRUCTIONS
Combine all the ingredients well in a bowl.
Place the mixture in canning jars; close the lids but not too tightly (not too loosely either).
Place a trivet in the base of a pressure cooker.
Place the jars on top of the trivet.
Fill the pressure cooker with enough water to reach halfway up the jars.
Bring the water to a simmer over high heat without the lid on the pot.
Once the water reaches a simmer, place the lid on the pot securely.
Allow for the pressure to build up, but don’t let the mixture boil. Turn the heat down to low, maintaining 1 bar / 15 psi. Avoid boiling the liquid, which is a sure sign that the pressure cooker is overpressurized.
Pressure-cook for 1 h.
Turn off the heat, and remove the pot from the stove. Allow it to cool down naturally. Don’t open the lid.
Once the cooker is cool, remove the lid carefully. Pull the jars out of the pot.
Open the lids to the jars, and remove the contents (drain if necessary). Once cool, the caramelized ingredient is ready to add to the dough.
INSTANT POT VARIATION
Set the Instant Pot to Sauté. Melt the butter in the base of the cooker. Add the main ingredient(s), sugar, baking soda, and water (if using).
Stir thoroughly to combine. Switch the Instant Pot to Pressure Cook mode. Select 12 psi (High), and set the time for 1 h. Lock the lid onto the pot and pressure-caramelize the grains.
When the Instant Pot has depressurized, cool the contents before adding to the dough.
ADDITIONAL TIPS
Keep a timer close to your pot. Pressure-cooking is time specific. You don’t want to forget when you started or how long your grain has been cooking.
Let the pressure within the pot release naturally, and don’t force this to happen. It can be dangerous to open the lid while there’s still pressure within the pot. Beware that the contents of the pot continue to cook even after you remove the pot from the stove and the pressure inside has decreased.
Determining the final texture of the grains is up to you. If the grains are undercooked, simply close the lid again, and continue to cook on low after reaching full pressure in 2- to 3-minute increments, checking for doneness each time. If the grains are too soft, they may still be usable for mixing into your dough. They’ll be less chewy and firm than properly cooked grains but will nonetheless contribute flavor and make for a chewy crumb. Accurate measuring should lead to properly cooked grains.
Once your grains have cooled, you can incorporate them into the dough. If you’re mixing by machine, add the caramelized ingredients into the dough when it has reached medium gluten development: turn the mixer down to low speed, add the pressure-caramelized ingredients, and mix until they’re just combined with the dough (see page 67 of Modernist Bread at Home for more information). If you’re mixing by hand, add them on top of the dough after the first or second fold in a single layer; they’ll mix into the dough as your folding progresses.
To prevent grains from scorching in a pressure cooker, make sure the flame or electric heat source is low enough to prevent scorching but not so low that the heat isn’t hot enough to cook the grains. Always start cooking with high heat to get the pressure buildup going, and then reduce the heat to medium-low or low to keep the liquid from boiling.
The Instant Pot or pressure cooker’s gasket can crack, which will prevent the cooker from sealing correctly. To extend the life of the gasket (it’s often one of the first things to go), coat it in cooking oil, and wipe off the excess with a clean paper towel. This helps keep it from drying out.
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While ring-shaped wheat breads have long existed in many parts of the world, the bagel has two main distinctions: it’s traditionally boiled and then baked, and it’s often associated with Jewish culture. Bagels have been around for centuries, their origins tracing back to Poland over 400 years ago. What began as a local specialty in Europe became a New York City staple by the 1950s and has since spread around the world.
